Around The World 2011 Day 25: Rome, Italy

Today will be our last full day in Roma.  But it is also Rebecca's first and only full day in Roma.  And since she hopped down from Frankfurt for just the weekend, our plan for the day is simple; blow Rebecca's mind with Roma.

Barbie went shopping on the corner this morning and set up this breakfast.    She never ceases to amaze. In fact, this shot is the moment I got out of bed and saw Barbie and Rebecca enjoy said breakfast.

I will take a brief the internet rocks nerd bread.  Rebecca is a Canadian whose work has taken her to Frankfurt.  On June 12, I could not sleep and was up at 5:30 AM in Los Angeles.  I was in my gmail, and saw that Rebecca was on gmail, too.  It was, after all, 2:30 PM in Frankfurt.  I said hello, and the subject of this trip came up because Barbie and I had recently solidified our city list for the summer.  When Rebecca told me that she has hit dozens of cities during her three years in Europe but she had never been to Rome, I suggested she meet us here.  I forwarded her a Waste link to one of our best days here, including the pasta at Taverna Trilussa in Trastevere.  She booked the ticket online that instant.  Plans finalized.

Now that, ladies and gentleman, is a person who takes advantage of living in Europe.  And it is also a cool what the internet can do that is not lame story.  Thanks to the internet I was able to chat for free with a friend thousands of miles away, tell that friend about a trip, and that friend was able to instantly book her own travel to meet us.  The internet.

The internet may be great, but having this breakfast inside the apartment is great, too.

Josh had to get up early today for a Vatican tour.  At the end of his tour we planned to meet him in Piazza San Pietro, Saint Peter's Square.   Time for a leisurely walk to the Pope's digs.

Globalization.  It is funny.  A day after taking this photo, my niece told me that I basically have to watch all the Harry Potter movies in order for her to think I am cool again.  That is a lot of hours, but as a devoted uncle I will do it... when they are are on HBO.

Castel Sant'Angelo, which I think is one of my favorite buildings in Rome specifically for its simple design and that it is not shall we say, the prettiest girl in school. It was initially commissioned by Emperor Hadrian in 135 AD as a mausoleum for himself and his family.  The building was later used by the popes as a fortress and castle, because things did get a little hairy during the middle ages.  It kind of amuses me to think of a time when the Pope needed a fortress for protection.  Today it is a museum, and, I will later hear from Josh, is known for its appearance in a Tom Hanks saves the world movie based on a novel with  chapters short enough for bathroom visits.

Very near the Vatican, we pass this old Rolls Royce parked in front a church.  When Romans marry, some do it in style.

There they are, with photographer and videographer following them during their staged walk to the church.  

Our first glimpse of St. Peter's Basilica, with a hot rod Audi zooming by.  Few shots capture Rome as succinctly.

There sits Benny's place.

Seeing St. Peter's for the first time is actually quite a moment for Rebecca.  She may be a Canadian and a scientist, but she was raised Catholic.  I know those things do not in reality contradict in any way.

A panorama of Piazza San Pietro.  Panoramas come out small on the Waste.  You might want to look at this one in its own window.

After hanging in St. Peter's Piazza for a bit, and meeting up with Josh, we decide to go for a stroll to better introduce Rome and Rebecca, and get some lunch.

First we pass Castel Sant'Angelo.  Every now and then I have to mention that the Church's appropriation of Roman buildings is double-edge for me.  Sure, they repurpose them for their own saints and stick crosses on them, but they also maintain them and keep them from turning into ruins.

Nice artwork for sale next to the Castel Sant'Angelo.  The black line is mine.

The Ponte Sant'Angelo, leading us across the Tevere into the heart of Rome.

We took side-streets, enjoying the atmosphere and lack of traffic.  There are few things as pleasurable as walking the quiet side-streets of Rome. 

We came across this café and I think it was Barbie's instinct to stop here.

The €10 lunch special might have influenced our instincts.  We also used this picture on my iPhone to order.  We plotted to each order a different lunch item, and then share.

Pizza margherita.  The drizzled olive oil on top is a touch you oddly do not often get in the USA.

Parma style eggplants.  (Hey, that is what the menu called it.)

Lasagna ragú.

All three were excellent.  We doubled up on the eggplant, Rebecca and I.

As you saw on the chalkboard, bread, water and coffee is included.  All three can cost extra in Rome, making this lunch a true bargain.

My coffee.

Barbie's cappuccino.

As Barbie pointed out, re-finding great little restaurants on side-streets is not easy.  Including the restaurants business card on the Waste should make it a touch easier, for us and anyone else.

Approaching Piazza Navona.  Few things are as naturally photogenic as narrow, stone streets.

I have photographed Piazza Navona probably fifteen times during four visits to Rome.  I apologize to those who hate diagonals, but I had to look for a new way to shoot this obelisk.

Seventeenth century Baroque church Sant'Agnese in Agone, overlooking the obelisk that has no definite date.  Difficult to date things permanently borrowed.  It was, by the way, transported in pieces from Egypt, in case you wondering how such a massive piece of stone was moved across the sea during the first century AD.

The side of the Pantheon.

I know you think this is another obelisk shot, but it is also a shot of my watching a potentially dishonest Italian take advantage of young American tourists.  He approached them with a loud, "Are you American?"  This is never a good sign.

He started showing them things, and I am not sure what he wanted them to buy, but I kept my eye on it ready to step in in case they reached for their purses.  Thankfully, they walked away without paying for a fake tour.  Rome does not have many con-men and is a very, very safe city.  There are policemen and police stations every few blocks.  Still, when a guy approaches young American women with a pitch, it is a good idea to keep an eye out for someone's daughter.

I have shown you far too many pictures of Vittorio Emmanuel II's Memorial, and none of his tomb.  There he is, inside the Pantheon.  Under his name it reads Papa Della Patria, Father of the Homeland.  This is true.  I still have a difficult time imagining the Italian peninsula split among different nations, speaking different languages, but it was entirely possible.  Florentine Italian became the official dialect of Italy when it unified, or linguistic fragmentation would have continued.

Did I say the other day that the oculus may look cool, but is actually part of the structural design.  With the technological at the time of its construction, they could not close that space without the concrete crumbling from the center.

Next to the Pantheon we saw a rare and fabulous sight.

An Asian guy in head to toe orange.  And not just orange, but Angry Birds clothing.  Yes, his clothing sports the logo of the mobile phone game Angry Birds that has been downloaded tens of millions of times.  His outfit screams one thing: dedication to concept.

Arrivaderci, Pantheon.

We walked over to the Area Sacra dell'Argentina, where temples dated between 400 BC to 200 BC were found as they excavated the block in the 1920's to prepare for a new building.  This is the cat sanctuary, but they stay mostly hidden during the daytime.  Come at night and cats are everywhere.

Walking towards the Trevi Fountain we passed the Wedding Cake from across Piazza Venezia.  This piazza carries this name as it is adjacent to the Palazzo Venezia, which was once the Rome embassy for the Republic of Venice.  Today's theme seems to be the former fragmentation of the Italian peninsula, as this piazza brings up the fact that Venice was its own republic from the 7th century until 1797.

This tourist boy apparently has ambitions to be a gladiator.

We arrived at Fontana Trevi, again.

Read last year's visit here for a debunking of the three coins in the fountain myth.  Here I shall mention that it is possible that we could start a new tradition, which is that if you make a wish at the Trevi Fountain and then pull your underwear out of your behind, that wish will come true.  The woman in the picture above is hoping that her wish comes true.

I normally crop out the black parts of these panorama shots, but I am liking this picture with the black.

Barbie and Rebecca at the Trevi Fountain; far, closer, closer still, and very close.

After the Trevi Fountain the goal was to walk to the Colosseum on the way to Basilica of Saint Clement, which is our goal of the day.  But the feet they were getting tired, and we hopped into t taxi.  Tomorrow, while we are on our way to the airport, Rebecca shall visit the Colosseum that we are passing by in the taxi.

The Basilica di San Clemente sits two blocks south of the Colosseum, and last year Sean and Lon visited it and raved.  This year we shall see it for ourselves.

The Basilica di San Clemente is a minor basilica in Catholic terms, but archeologically it is fascinating.  It is a three tiered building, for the 12th century Catholic basilica sits atop a 4th century Christian church, which sits atop a second century Mithraic temple.

Mithraic Temple?  I had no clue what that meant.

Mithraism was a religion practiced in the Roman Empire from around the 1st century to the 4th century AD.  Based on the Persian god Mithra, adapted into Greek as Mithras, it is referred to as a cult in most of what I have now read about it.  I would like to point out that had Mithraism beaten out Christianity on the popularity front, Mithraism might have the massive churches and Christianity would be reserved for a few underground archeological digs.  Mithraism was very popular in Rome, particularly among the Roman military.  I love being reminded that ancient Rome was home to many, many budding religions, and to me it is fascinating that one of them succeeded in having more than a billion followers.  I understand that a faithful Christian considers this success a God-given inevitability.  

Photography was not allowed.  I cannot recall seeing a column with a diagonal spiral pattern, and accidentally took a picture. 

The lowest level under the Basilica di San Clemente features a running spring.  It is always wonderful to be deep underground and see an underground stream of water coming through.

After the basilica, our tired feet needed a taxi ride back to Trastevere.

No explanation necessary. 

Roman Scooter Candid.  July 2011.  Actually, I think he is looking right at me, which makes this not very candid.  Also, note my hands in the side view mirror. 

After some time back in the apartment, we headed out to dinner.  We have an early reservation, which suits us fine.

Walking through Piazza San Cosimato, we were treated to a Saturday fair of sorts.  Men on stilts banging drums and... 

Kickboxing!  This piazza next to our apartment is quite versatile.  And, yes, it amused Barbie and I that after basically avoiding Muay Thai boxing in Thailand, we have come across the same thing in Rome. 

This is our first time here in the daylight.  Possibly the best food in Rome, though last night's meal at Miraggio could also be considered the best food in Rome. 

They started us with this extremely sharp cheese with the same grapes that become Barolo wine.  This cheese was delicious and extremely sharp, the way that I love cheese, but every time I asked the waiter what kind of cheese this was, he said in broken English, "White cheese with the same grapes that are used for Barolo wine."

Rebecca ordered a glass of the house red, which came in the cute little pitcher.  She shared. 

Barbie started us with the proscuitto and buffalo mozzarella.  This proscuitto was definitely the freshest we have had in Rome, tender and delicious.  The best i have had outside of Parma. 

The waiter brought us a special balsamic vinegar to add, that made it even more delicioso. 

Rebecca started us with the grilled vegetable plate, which was more delicious than I expected.  How is it that everything here tastes just a bit better than every other restuarant?

If you are a loyal Waste reader, you will recognize my Bombolotti alla Norcina.  This is the third year in a row I have eaten this.  From the menu:  Made with heavy cream, Norcia sausages, Parmigiano, Pecorino, black pepper and a pinch of nutmeg.

Rebecca got the Bucatini all' Amatriciana.  I tried it, and man was it delicioso as well.  Rome's most famous dish.  Thick hollow spaghetti with tomato sauce, guancale bacon and Pecorino cheese.  We owe most of our notoriety to this dish.  Approved by the commune of Amatrice, home to the original recipe!

Barbie and Josh both got the Ravioli Mimosa (Winner of two contests.)  A small secret of ours, neither fish nor meat.  WInner of a contest in Rome and Milan.  Creamy and delicious!  We will never know exactly what is in this dish, but I know that every time we eat here Barbie will order it.

And with that, dinner was complete.  We have already planned to walk by Trastevere's best gelati on the way home.

I love this sign. 

We have walked too much every day to treat ourselves to twilight walks, but man does the hour after sunset always look best in photography.  

Barbie, Josh and Rebecca each got gelato, and Barbie of course shared with me.  I think that if I had a vat of the dark chocolate gelato that Josh ordered... well, let us just say that if I am a hundred and three years old and a doctor tells me that I have a short time left, I will fly to Rome and eat that flavor gelato at this gelateria until I explode.

Kickboxing has given way to normal boxing.  As far I could tell, those boxers were young.  Maybe in their teens, maybe younger.   Some kind of Italian golden gloves competition?

And with that, we returned home to the apartment.  Tomorrow, we have breakfast and then fly to Hungary. 

Until tomorrow.