Colossal Waste: Around The World 2011 Day 23: Rome, Italy

Barbie returns from the Amalfi coast today, but not until the evening. Left to our devices, Josh and I have laid out a most ambitious itinerary. Not really.

But I have always wanted to visit the Pyramid of Cestius, but it is too far out of the for most people to visit. Fortunately, it is not much of a walk from Trastevere, and our plan is to walk to it, hop on the Metro and use our Roma Passes to ride the subway for free up to Termini (the central train station), where we will hop on an archeobus tour that will take us to the countryside where the catacombs can be found. Ready?

Walking along Via Marmorata, I was struck that I was in an evel less touristy neighborhood that Trastevere. I always love seeing the neighborhoods that are normal and unseen by the masses.

Soon enough, we came across the Pyramid of Cestius, referred to here as Piramide Cestia.

Built around 15 BC as a tomb for Caius Cestius, a local magistrate and religious big wig, this pyramid was very fashionable when it was built. Although the sharp angle of this pyramid is more like the Nubian pyramids than those of Egypt, at the time this was built all things Egyptian were hip. Just like today, people were always looking for the new style. I get a kick out of thinking that the ancient Romans were gaga for Egyptian styles, since their own were already dull to them.

For the record, this Piramide is 121 feet tall, or 37 meters if you are not English or USAmerican.

The Piramide next to its young neighbor, the Porta San Paolo. The Pyramid of Cestius was incorporated into the Aurelian Walls between 271 and 275, probably to save money on materials for the wall. Therefore, the Piramide is around 290 years older than that new city wall door next to it. Age is relative, no?

I could not help myself.

We hopped on the Metro at the Piramide stop.

Easy enough to get to Termini, no?

Graffiti covered train cars. We are above ground here, but will soon be underground.

Obligatory subway shot.

It is pretty cool that the stops for Rome's Metro are historical archeological sites, like Piramide, Circo Massimo, and Colosseo. Pretty cool? More like supercool.

Josh emerging from the Metro, scaring off the locals with his you do not want to mess with me stare.

We grabbed lunch at a lunch counter, which is appropriate.

Proscuitto e mozzarella panini for me. With lemon flavored iced tea.

Josh got fresh squeezed orange juice and a chicken panini.

Termini is a very big train station. It feels like one of Los Angeles' malls.

We bought tickets for the archeobus and had forty minutes to kill.

Just outside Termini, on the way to Piazza della Republica, sits an obelisk. I have made a commitment to photograph them all for you. I will not fail you. I promise. And it took me until now, I think, to finally mention in 2011 that the Romans sure did take a lot of obelisks from Egypt. To the victor go the spoils, I know.

Piazza della Repubblica; built from 1887 to 1898 when a unified Italy was clearly feeling its oats.

Next to the Piazza della Repubblica sits the Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels and the Martyrs.

From the outside, it looks nearly like a ruin.

Inside it is beautiful. Construction began in 1562, and it was altered many times over the centuries.

This basilica features a statue of Galileo, and a meridian line along the floor that works a bit like a sundial measuring the days of the year.

Yes. When I am in a Catholic basilica and I see a Muslim woman in a full burka, I take her picture.

It was time to go meet our archeobus.

Our ride out to Appia Antica and Rome's catacombs.

Josh had asked around eleventeen times over the last few days about visiting Appia Antica. I felt it appropriate to get his picture with the indication he would be taken there. On the bus to the countryside, we literally passed half of Rome's great sites.

The Vittorio Emmanuel II Memorial.

Trajan's Column.

El Colosseo.

Soon enough, we were far from the streets and sights of Rome.

Via Appia, which in ancient times represented a significant connection between Rome and other parts of the Italian peninsula.

We have to see the catacombs, and the catacombs we shall see. The Catacombs di San Callisto, to be exact.

So... there were a few red flags here. First, when we arrived I noticed the signs saying that you could only take a guided tour and the photography was forbidden. Why are these red flags? Because when they force you to listen to a guide, that means there is not much to see. And when they will not let you take pictures, yours truly asks, "Then what exactly am I doing here?"

Compared to the extremely fascinating catacombs of Paris, these catacombs were a dud. Their history is interesting, and far more ancient than those of Paris. And were I a faithful Christian, it would have been meaningful to know that these catacombs were used by Christians in the days when Christianity was not yet legal in the Roman Empire. However, all of the Popes and Saints have been moved out, and the tour consists of looking at empty spaces.

My iPhone accidentally came out of my pocket and took this picture of emptiness. I am as shocked that this happened accidentally as you are.

In conclusion, skip the catacombs of Rome.

Up the road we came across the Tomb of Caecelia Matella. According the placard next to it, The Tomb of Caecilia Matella was built ca. 30-20 BCE to celebrate the glory of the Metelli, a prominent political family in the later Roman Republic. It is notable for its size, shape and decoration.

My interpretation; Caecilia Matella and her family were rich and powerful and when she died they wanted to make sure that everyone knew it.

The view inside the tomb, looking up.

And really, that was all there was to see. The archeobus is a dud and I recommend you stay within the city of Rome where around every corner is something beautiful, historical, or both.

Returning to Trastevere brought me joy.

After many hours in the sun, we needed some gelati. But I chose the Sorbetto Cioccolato. I know, I know. It has as much sugar and calories as the gelati. Maybe. But it felt like a more reasonable choice to make.

Josh wanted to do some shopping, which brought me into souvenir stores for the first time since I arrived in Rome.

Yes, you are cute, but you are not quite cute enough. Sorry, Roma Bear. You do not get to come home and hang out with the bears from Frankfurt, London, and Paris.

Shadow Self Portrait, on Trastevere's stone street.

Piazza San Cosimato, Trastevere. Our apartment is just around the corner from this triangular piazza that features a small playground for children.

We had made reservations at B-Said, the restaurant near Termini which sits in a former chocolate factory and has many dishes which feature chocolate. Barbie returned home from Amalfi -- yes, this is home -- and after some time to wash up we headed to dinner.

A taxi ride to dinner often takes you by the Colosseum. I never tire of it.

At B-Said, they brought over a special waiter who knew some English and could tell us what each menu item was.

Barbie started with the scallops.

I started with tonight's special pasta, which was a fettucine with dark chocolate specs and a spice tomato sauce.

It was quite good.

Barbie's main dish was this conical parmesan risotto.

I got the special main course of the night, a grilled octopus with a dark chocolate sauce. Look closely and you can see the suckers on the tentacles. I came here to have something unique.