After missing breakfast at the hotel, we grab a bite at a cafeteria along Via Venetto.
Good, fresh food at reasonable prices. It is nice that there is not a conveniently placed American fast food restaurant near the hotel. But a muffin and iced coffee from Starbucks would not have hurt. Unlike Germany and Spain and most other countries in Europe, the Italians have held the giant from Seattle at bay.
The Aurelian Walls between Via Venetto and Villa Borghese. One thing to remember is that Rome never needed a wall. It was too powerful to ever be invaded. The Roman Republic, ruled by the Senate, was founded in 510 BC. It was not until a barbarian invasion in 270 AD that they considered building a wall. (The term Barbarian here meaning Not-Roman. A tad of bias in the term.) That is 780 years without an invasion. Emperor Aurelian, whose reign began that year, set about building city walls as a reaction to the invasion. The folk tale version of this story, and it is extremely believable, is that when the people of Rome saw a wall being built they knew it was over. The city that needed no wall needed a wall. Rome was no longer the dominant power of the Western world.
I am just going to assume that this is Aurelian or Probus, the two emperors who reigned during the time these walls were built. The editorial I would add is that when you compare the look of these walls to the look of other structures built in Rome the century before, you can see the urgency and lack of concern for esthetics. The bricks used are small, easy to make, and fast to lay.
The Galleria Borghese. Yesterday we talked a little about how Cardinal Borghese was a nobleman who built this "party villa" to entertain friends and show off his art collection.
The Viale Museo Borghese. It does confuse visitors like us hat Villa Borghese refers to the entire park while Galleria Borghese refers to the museum. It would be easier for us New Worlders if the park was called the Borgese Gardens and the museum the Borghese Villa, because Villa makes us think house ten times out of ten.
The Galleria Borghese has a super-strict no camera policy. Therefore, you do not get to see the Baroque collection inside, as well a few antiquities from Egypt and Imperial Rome. It is amazing to think that one man was able to amass this collection, a literal treasure trove of statues and paintings.
These works were all collected during the lifetime of Cardinal Scipione Borghese, (1576-1633) who became wealthy when his uncle become Pope Paul V (1605-1621). I can only imagine the parties thrown here during the heyday. You have heard my feelings on the Baroque before, and Villa Borghese rivals any church as the gold standard of the era. Everywhere you look, every square inch, is adorned with decoration. The ceilings are painted with mythical creatures popping away from the background, their shadows cast against the walls painted behind them, pointing and laughing. I cannot help but think this was the beautiful revenge of Scipione Borghese, the poor kid who ended up being the favorite nephew of the Pope at the time that the Papacy was the one and only power inside Italy, having the landed aristocracy and noblemen of Rome over to his villa to have his very ceiling laugh at them that they have been surpassed.
Sorry that you do not get to see it. I could post pics from the internet, but if you are desperate to see the collection inside then I think you probably have the energy and knowhow to google that for yourself.
We came back to the hotel with the plan to get my butt to the Colosseum, but we were tired and Barbie had work to do and it was still wildly hot outside. Barbie suggested we go after dinner, and knowing how beautiful it would look in the lights I agreed. Plus, we took eleventeen hundred pictures of the Colosseum by day in 2006. This would be our first night visit.
Walking toward dinner, I had to snap a picture during the magical time that city lights are on and yet cameras pick up blue sky.
We walked a few blocks to Otto E Mezzo, Eight and a Half, which Benedetta had suggested was an excellent place near our hotel. We bumped into her along the way, Sean seeing her on her scooter and shouting her name, saving her as she had passed the restaurant a few streets back, her mind busy thinking about getting some Japanese Yen for an upcoming trip to Tokyo.
At Otto E Mezzo, which is hip and modern and spells it as one word with bold to separate the words, ottoemezzo, we met up with Nic, whom loyal Waste Readers will recall from our meal at Miraggio in June, 2009. Nic is Benedetta's childhood friend and also an attorney, and one of the finest dinner companions you may ask for.
The chef sent over this starter, a roasted pork slice with balsamic reduction.
Nic has the strazzopreti, which you Wasters know is the Priest Choker.
Sean got some pasta for his first course.
I began with the Beef and Mint Milfoil.
Barbie enjoyed the Handmade codfish ravioli with anchovie's (sic) cream.
Sean went with the Prawns Kebabh, and figured that lowering his face to plate-level is a sure-fire way to get on the Waste.
I got the Piglet fillet medallions with honey and curry.
Lon finished the night with the Tandoori Chicken, which was about as well seasoned as any tandoori chicken has ever been. I had one piece, then another, then another, and then he cut the last piece in half to share it with me. There is a reason his nickname in Ialia has been, Sant'Lonico.
Barbie ordered this Watermelon Granita for dessert. Fantastically tasty and refreshing.
Nic got the Chocolate Cigar. No explanation necessary.
I caught Benedetta coming out as I took a picture of the restaurant's logo next to the door.
After dinner, a bone was thrown my direction as we headed out into the Roman night, close to midnight, to visit the Colosseum.
After dinner, a bone was thrown my direction as we headed out into the Roman night, close to midnight, to visit the Colosseum.
Scooters. Everywhere. (Though not like in Asia.)
There it is, with Sean, Lon and Barbie crossing the street to it. Besides being second only to the Pyramids and Great Wall of China on the list of amazingly colossal ancient structures, which are pretty much at the top of the list of things to do someday, the Colosseum has a fascinating history. I promise-promise-promise to be quick.
The Colosseum's story is a feel-good one. Near central Rome, between the Esquiline, Caelian, and Palatine Hills, lay a fairly flat area that was densely populated. Following the Great Fire of Rome in 64 AD, Emperor Nero claimed this land for himself and built his Domus Aurea, or Golden House, and put an artificial lake in front of it. As you can imagine, taking land from the people for your own personal lake was not popular. In 72 AD, Emperor Vespasian took this land, tore down the house, filled in the lake, and began construction of a great amphitheater in the center of town. Vespeasian passed away and Titus completed the project in 80 AD. This is one of the grandest examples ever of Royalty taking their land and giving it the people.
By the way, the name Colosseum refers to a colossal statue of Nero which once stood nearby. Over time the name of the statue extended to the amphitheater next to it as well. When it was in use, this structure was called the Amphitheatrum Flavium, as it was built by emperors of the Flavian dynasty. Recall that last year our guide in Pompeii taught me that an Amphitheater is Greek for Two-Theaters, as in you take two theaters and make them face each other to create a theater-in-the-round.
Theaters were normally built into hills, so that you did not have to work so hard to build that upward slope of seating. (Note: Hollywood Bowl.) The Colosseum was placed near the center of Rome on a plain, making it a direct statement to the people that it was for them.
The Colosseum's story is a feel-good one. Near central Rome, between the Esquiline, Caelian, and Palatine Hills, lay a fairly flat area that was densely populated. Following the Great Fire of Rome in 64 AD, Emperor Nero claimed this land for himself and built his Domus Aurea, or Golden House, and put an artificial lake in front of it. As you can imagine, taking land from the people for your own personal lake was not popular. In 72 AD, Emperor Vespasian took this land, tore down the house, filled in the lake, and began construction of a great amphitheater in the center of town. Vespeasian passed away and Titus completed the project in 80 AD. This is one of the grandest examples ever of Royalty taking their land and giving it the people.
By the way, the name Colosseum refers to a colossal statue of Nero which once stood nearby. Over time the name of the statue extended to the amphitheater next to it as well. When it was in use, this structure was called the Amphitheatrum Flavium, as it was built by emperors of the Flavian dynasty. Recall that last year our guide in Pompeii taught me that an Amphitheater is Greek for Two-Theaters, as in you take two theaters and make them face each other to create a theater-in-the-round.
Theaters were normally built into hills, so that you did not have to work so hard to build that upward slope of seating. (Note: Hollywood Bowl.) The Colosseum was placed near the center of Rome on a plain, making it a direct statement to the people that it was for them.
Next to the Colosseum is the Arch of Constantine, built to commemorate Constantine I's victory over Maxentius at the Battle of the Milvian bridge. (I always confuse it with the arch built for the victory over the Jewish uprising over in Judea.) This is the arch that the French used as the model for the Arc de Triomphe. Paris's is bigger, but seeing as the Arch of Constantine was built in 315 AD, I cannot help but be a tad more impressed.
Many attribute Constantine to the spread of Christianity, and rightly so, but I would point out that his Edict of Milan in 313 proclaimed religious tolerance throughout the Roman Empire. Constantine was over 40 when he proclaimed himself a Christian, and he did so mainly because this new religion's popularity made his conversion politically wise.
And as long as I am talking about Christianity, major props to the Church on behalf of the Colosseum. Throughout the Middle Ages the structure was deteriorating and being looted. In 1749, Pope Benedict XIV established that the Colosseum was a holy site for the Christians who had been martyred there. This placed the Colosseum under the Church's protection, and without this move it might be in even worse shape today. I might add that no Christians were ever martyred at the Colosseum. This all occurred at the Circus Flaminius, as the Colosseum had more entertaining performances for the people than the murders of members of a minority religion. But thank goodness for historical inaccuracy. Had this fallacy of Christian martyrdom only become accepted earlier, perhaps there would be even more Colosseum to enjoy today.
Many attribute Constantine to the spread of Christianity, and rightly so, but I would point out that his Edict of Milan in 313 proclaimed religious tolerance throughout the Roman Empire. Constantine was over 40 when he proclaimed himself a Christian, and he did so mainly because this new religion's popularity made his conversion politically wise.
And as long as I am talking about Christianity, major props to the Church on behalf of the Colosseum. Throughout the Middle Ages the structure was deteriorating and being looted. In 1749, Pope Benedict XIV established that the Colosseum was a holy site for the Christians who had been martyred there. This placed the Colosseum under the Church's protection, and without this move it might be in even worse shape today. I might add that no Christians were ever martyred at the Colosseum. This all occurred at the Circus Flaminius, as the Colosseum had more entertaining performances for the people than the murders of members of a minority religion. But thank goodness for historical inaccuracy. Had this fallacy of Christian martyrdom only become accepted earlier, perhaps there would be even more Colosseum to enjoy today.
The Arch of Constantine with the Colosseum behind it. And, yes, I was taking far more pictures than those Japanese tourists. Stereotypes be damned.
My wife in front of the Colosseum.
Barbie taking a picture of the boys at the Colosseum.
I will never, ever tire of this building.
Walking away from it, I have to keep turning back.
"You take the picture, I take the coin." This street artist is honest and direct. A beggar with chalk.
The Vittorio Emanuele II Monument. Though he became King of Italy (united Italy) in 1861, this over-the-top monument was begun in 1911 by his successors and not completed until 1935. And it annoys many Romans. Vittorio Emanuele II was savvy enough to side with Prussia in the Austro-Prussian War, gaining independence for Italy for the first time in centuries. But the Italians today refer to this monument as The Wedding Cake, meant as an insult regarding its grandeur.
Vittorio Emanuele II on his horse at the center. We have walked to the top during the daytime and the view is breathtaking.
Walking from the Wedding Cake to the Piazza Navona, we passed a club which featured some men in drag. I should have asked them to pose. Lon informed me that drag is all about getting your picture taken. I have to do away with my shyness. You Wasters deserve a better drag picture.
The Area Sacra. When they began construction on two luxury buildings, they found two Roman temples below. Goodbye luxury buildings. This area also features hundreds of cats, which we are told were moved here from the Colosseum.
Ancient Roman temples remind me of the open air temples we saw in Bali. Why not surround yourself with columns and open air to worship your creator? Who needs walls?
In Piazza Navona, this couple got rather fresh in front of the Fountain of the Four Rivers, sculpted by Bernini, of course. (Though he did sculpt the Egyptian obelisk at its center. I have to say, baroque sculpture and Egyptian antiquity do not mesh too well for me. Not for political reasons, but because both draw away from each other.)
As this is our last night with Sean & Lon, we finish the Waste with their picture at the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi.
Tomorrow Barbie and I fly to Prague, adding a new country to my list!
Good night.
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